Cotton
The cotton plant was domesticated
in four different geographical regions of the world as
far back as 5000 B.C. There have been four distinct
botanical species:
Gossypium [G]
arboretum (northern Africa) or the famous
Egyptian cotton cultivated in
Sudan and
Egypt since
the days of the Pharaohs.
G. herbaceum or the cotton that has been grown
in South Asia [ India &
Pakistan] or rather the
Indus valley and the Harappa civilizations.
G. hirsutum in Central America - Mexico
since the days of the Mayan civilization.
G. barbadense growing in Peru and
the Barbados & Jamaica Islands since the days of
the Incas
Organically cultivated, naturally
pigmented cotton is one of the oldest industrial crops
of humankind, and still survives as a backyard plant
among many peasant and indigenous peoples of the
tropics.
History:
The word 'cotton' was derived
from the Sanskrit word 'karpasa'. We can say about
India as the homef of cotton as traditionally it is a
cotton growing country. It was an export commodity
even during very early times. The cotton handloom
industry of India is one of the great manufacturing
institutions of the world.
Cotton is the
predominating fabric used in the Indian textile
industry - nearly 60% of overall consumption in
textiles and more than 75% in spinning mills is
cotton. India is among the world's largest producers
of cotton with over 9 million hectares and an annual
crop of around 3 million tones. In 2001 cotton fiber
production was of the order of 14 million bales, and
has been declining steadily from the 18 million levels
in 1996, mainly due to crop disasters and calamities
in important growing areas.
From the year
2000, there has been deficit in cotton yarn creating
problem to the handloom industry. To meet its
consumption demand India imported more than 2 million
bales of cotton fiber each in 2000 and 2001. The price
of cotton yarn increased up to 30 per cent recently.
The reason was due to exporting raw cotton to the
countries like China, the USA and Pakistan. Along with
it, cotton production was also decreased. By this,
power loom production decreased to 17% from 28% in the
year 2004.
Cotton
consumption in the textile sector is expected to grow
by 60% in fiscal year 2006-07. This rise is a result
of smooth supply and low cost of cotton. Consumption
of cotton fibers was recorded nearly 55.5 pct in the
year 2004-05. During this period, the expected
consumption may increase to 20.4mn bales.
Thanks to Cotton
to keep oneself comfortable on a humid day, there is
nothing like wearing a cool and simple cotton dress.
Probably the weather conditions foster the growth of
cotton in India, making it an integral part of the
Textile industry in the country. Having discovered
some pieces of cotton stuck to a silver vase and some
broken spindles on evacuation sites, Archeologists
realized that Spinning and Weaving of cotton was known
to the Harappans 5 million years ago. Reference to
weaving, the method of spinning, the various materials
used etc., are also mentioned in the Vedic literature
and ancient scripts. Various weaving, designing and
needlework techniques have survived through the
centuries. The technique of growing cotton was widely
popularized even at those times in countries like
Mexico, Peru, Egypt and Pakistan.
Types of Cotton
.Organic
Cotton
.Natural Dyes
and Vegetable Colors
.Non Organic
Cotton and Chemicals
.Cotton trade
.Cotton Staple
Length
Qualities of Cotton, the Natural
Fiber:
Cotton is said to be the most important natural fibers of all.
In the textile industry, more than half of the fiber used is cotton and is
preferred to by millions of people around the globe. This fiber is very smooth
and the clothes made of this fiber give a comfortable feeling. The cotton fiber
has a very high degree of water absorbing quality and thus enables to remove
stains and is easy to maintain.
How cotton replaced wool, the story ? :
The wool industry was flourishing during the 17th century in
Europe. And though spinning and weaving were gaining popularity, the Europeans
not desiring any competition with their commodity, and banned the sale of
cotton or cotton related material. They even passed legislation to this effect.
However towards the middle of the 17th century, when the ban was lifted, cotton
mills came up like mushrooms.
Cultivation Of Cotton
This belongs to the plant family whose leaves and flowers are
similar to that of the maple plant.
Temperature:
For a good yield of cotton a temperature of 30-35 Celsius is preferable.
Soil:
Black Alluvial Soil also called Black Cotton Soil with enough moisture
retentiveness is suitable for cotton cultivation.
Irrigation:
Water and irrigation facilities should be provided and when required so as to
maintain the moisture level of the field.
Sowing:
1. Firstly the ground should be ploughed well.
2. Seasoning of the seeds should be done very carefully to have a healthy
growth.
3. Careful selection of seeds is a must.
4. Purchasing of seeds from authorized dealers is best as the quality of the
seeds is maintained.
5. After 5-6 days of Planting, the farmer should take care to remove the
weeds and other unwanted growth around the plants. Thus the minerals provided
for the plant are entirely absorbed by the plant itself.
Harvesting:
Each ball of cotton contains 30 seeds and in each seed about
5000 fibers are present. In about 3 weeks time each fiber grows to its full
length and thereafter gets thicker. The ball matures within10 weeks and after
flowering it bursts open. Later it gets dried in the sunlight and this period
is called as harvesting season/period. Generally Cotton is picked by hand which
is considered as the best method amongst all due to the following reasons.
1. Waste materials could be easily left out while plucking
cotton.
2. The immature cotton balls could be left out for the next picking. Thus
they get an opportunity to grow.
3. Thus there can be double or treble picking.
However machines too are being used today for harvesting.
Ginning:
After harvesting the Cotton is dried and separated from the
seeds. This process is known as ginning. The Ginning Machine, invented by Eli
Whitney, an American, made the Ginning process very easy, prior to which
ginning was a laborious process. About 50-60 pounds of fibers per day could be
separated and as time passed, many new models of this machine were made,
further simplifying the ginning process. Cottonseed oil is taken out from the
separated seeds, which is used in various ways.
Classification of Cotton:
Classification of quality of cotton is done by looking and
feeling. This look and feel method judges the fiber and categorizes it based on
length, feel and color of the fiber. Depending on the quality of the fiber, its
price is decided and sent to the market.
Spinning:
Spinning is the next stage after classification. Bales of cotton
are sent to the market. Depending on the requirement, the buyer purchases
cotton. In the past, Spinning was done by hand, but later during the 17th
century new techniques were being developed and as a result the Spinning
machine was invented by James Hargreaves in 1765.
Today spinning is carried out on a sophisticated machine. Baled
cotton is put into the machine, which is ultimately opened into tufts. The
waste is thus eliminated. The fiber is formed into laps, which are fed into the
carding machine. At this stage the cotton gets into a single fiber and is
formed into slivers. These several slivers are formed into a single sliver.
This process is called Ring Spinning. This could be called as Yarn. The quality
of yarn is judged at this stage as most of the waste material is removed. The
yarn becomes smooth, clean and strong. Generally, this method is followed
though it involves in a long and tedious process.
India's Cotton and Cotton Goods
Cotton goods from India have gained international acclaim. India
exports a majority of cotton goods to the US, UK and other South East Asian
countries. In the recent years Indian exports have increased substantially
to a great level.
Government of India
The Government of India is encouraging the export of Indian
Cotton goods by allowing certain concessions and by easing the trade
restrictions on the exports. Indian Cotton goods owe their demand to the high
quality and craftsmanship. Of late, there are many modernizing methods being
adopted to withstand the International market competition.
Other Cotton Exporting Countries
China, Peru, and Pakistan are the other countries producing and
exporting cotton in the world. China occupies a remarkable position and
enjoys a major share in the export of cotton goods.
