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      Shawal – description

                        Weaving Techniques
                        Difference between Indian (Kashmir) European Shawl
           
            Carpets

                        Types of Carpets
                        Production of Carpets
                        Weaving Types
           
            Sarees

                        Story of Saree
                        Sarees from Andhra Pradesh
                        How Sarees are woven
                        Specialties of Sarees
                        Tales of a Saree
                        How to tie a saree
                        Sola Singar

Old Accusation
Saree Bzz
Secrets of Sarees
Styles of draping
Characteristics of a saree
Essentials of  Saree
Intricate steps in wearing  a saree


       

 

 

Shawl

The woven garment worn over the elbow and loosely draped over so as to cover the body over to shoulders, which appears to be elegant. It was the woven Kashmiri shawl that attracted women flock all over the world. These shawls were very much in demand quite for a long time. Later on Paisley designed shawls became very popular and they remained famous for over a century. The word "SHAWL" is found in Persian language, which used to denote a type of woven fabric. It was during the Mughal Emperor Akbar’s period that the modern shawl’s history began in Kashmir. He had been accredited for having brought the weavers from Turkey . It was during his period, in 18th century the shawl was on top all the woven fabrics.
With the advancement of the technology, the production of shawl has gone up, thus meeting the demand of the time during 1870 and thereafter. At this time, due to the changing scenario of the global situation, war between the countries of East and west and certain trade restrictions between the nations, the trend of the people changed. Their choices have changed. They started to like some other textiles.
As the demand for the Kashmiri shawl shapely fell, the weavers who were mainly depending on the manufacturing of the shawl were facing problems to maintain them and their families. This was a very big blow for the Kashmiri shawls. Due to their elegant nature, the Royal families were very fond of using these for various occasions and they were in possession of so many in their dressing rooms. So this became every ones requirement for all special occasions. The shawl use to provide extra elegance not only for women but also it was used for covering bed couches, table’s chairs & pianos etc. The shawl soon became a fashion for the richest and the middle class was trying to imitate the higher class. It was opined that the Kashmiri shawl was long lasting and free from any side affects. Hence the usage of the shawl became very popular amongst all classes of society.

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The Weaving of Shawls

 

The weaving techniques vary from place to place. In Kashmir the shawls are woven by hand in weft faced twill tapestry technique. For the color combination, selected colors could be wound to bobbin forward and backward through the wrap to create the desired design. Depending on the size of the shawl, design and other aspects, the duration of making shawl varies. The complex design, with long and heavy work on a big shawl needs a longer duration. During this period, i.e. the 17th century the shawls were made in many Asian and European countries. So many fashions came up using the native land designs and descriptions, religious and cultural and as such so many patterns evolved. During the middle of the 18th century Kashmir started producing shawls of high quality, which have been much in demand internationally. Toward the end of 17th century Britain started to make shawls of so many varieties including that of Indian Kashmiri shawls. They were tried on so many combinations. A smooth and soft variety of wool was used to make wefts. Silk wrap was used to provide strength. The machine made shawls of the Europe were of the competition with the Kashmiri hand woven shawls. But, traditionally made Kashmiri shawls were having their demand as they were known for the rich heritage and quality. The Kashmiri work had grown enormously due to their being best in all shawls. As the weaving on the machine began in a big way, the hand woven shawls were finding problems, as they were not able to meet the demand. This became advantageous for machine made shawls and as such they were able to sell more, meeting the demand of the situation. This resulted in some of the shawl manufacturers to even diversify their business for survival. Thus the designs those were prevalent towards the end of the 18th century, evolved from India and the Europe are still prevalent and are extant even till date. Thus, gradually evolved in to a big industry, the shawls of the 19th century comes with rich pattern which were made by using the light colors such as cream etc. This is also one of the features for finding the time or period of manufacturing the shawls. In the beginning the Kashmiri shawls were brought to Europe for copying the designs. Later on, books were also brought from Europe to Kashmir for manufacturing the shawls having the international market demand. This exchange of designs paved ways for development of new designed shawls in the market by the year 1910. At present shawls are manufactured in India, in Kashmir, Amritsar and Jullandhar. The other countries manufacturing the shawls are England, France, Australia, Russia and the U.S.

The characteristics of Kashmiri and the European shawls that vary mainly by the method of weaving and type of cloth used.

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Differences between the Kashmiri shawl and the European shawl

1) The Kashmiri shawl is woven from hair. It is very smooth and light in weight, whereas the European shawl is woven out of silk and wool, hence it is heavy in weight.
2) Since hair of the Pushmina goat was used for weaving, the Kashmiri shawls are very strong and durable, whereas the European shawls were not durable as the wool used for wrap was not strong enough.
3) In both the cases the method adopted is 'twill tapestry.'

 

 

Carpets

Carpet making is considered to be one of the ancient crafts. Presently carpet weaving has grown into a big industry in the world. Though the exact origin cannot be traced, its evolution began during the 16th century in Persia. Historical evidences are also found that nomadic tribes have used these.

 

Types of Carpets

 

The Pazyryk Russian rug:

This dates back to the 5th century B.C. and was discovered by the Russian archeologist Rudenko in the mountains of Siberia. This remarkable work of art is housed in the Russian museum in St. Petersburg, knotted in both the Pazyryk Turkish and Persian manner.

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The Sinkiang fragment:
These were found from 3rd century to 6th century A.D. and were found by the European explorers in Chinese Sinkiang province. The weaving is done in geometrical designs and some are woven in Turkish knot while others are simple loop pile. This type can be seen in London museum too. These are also available in the Museum of Islamic in Berlin of Germany, Museum of New Delhi in India.

Egyptian and Mamluks:
Several distinct groups of earl piled carpet fragments were discovered in Cairo in 1933 which came to be known as Fostat fragments. These have been named after the area where they were formed.

Persian Carpets:

Persia is known for its carpets since the 11th century and was on the top of its glory during 15th century. The old pattern and designs were replaced by beautiful new flowerlike designs which have impressed the Emperor Tamer Lane , an Emperor of barbarism who could find time for these works of art. As such the Chinese arts were employed by the Persian Emperor

Ottoman Turkey:

The constant engagement in war with its neighboring Turkey, Persia has gained development of the curvilinear designs carpet weaving in Turkey and Persia disappeared by the 18th century. Ottoman weaving centers continued to produce carpets during the 16th and 17th century.

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Manufacture of Carpets
Rugs and carpets are made on handlooms in which there are two types :

1. Vertical Looms
2. Horizontal looms
The Process of Making
The warp or strings generally made of wool, cotton or animal hair or silk are fastened longitudinally for which the loom acts as a frame. Silk, wool, and cotton weft is passed over and under the wrap at a 90-degree angle. If the piece is finely woven possibly we can use the weaving in this condition and these are 'KILLIMS '. In other case the knots are tied on to the wraps and tightly held in place by the wefts.

Weaving and Knotting

Before weaving the loom should be prepared with utmost care for producing any type of carpet generally a few rows of Kilim are woven the beginning to provide protection for the ends of the weaving, when a carpet or a piled rug is to be made.

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Types of Weave

Kilim Method of Weaving:

In this method of weaving there shall be no knots but shall consist of wrap and weft. by passing the weft in between the wrap and from each selvedge the weaving is done. The weft running part way across the weaving to the part wherever the design changes which is also called slit tapestry weave, mostly done in Persia.

Soumakh Method Weaving:

The method of weaving requires wrapping weft over 4 wraps before drawing them back under the last two which is repeated from selvedge to selvedge. Change of design takes place as in case of Kilim, expecting where there be no slits left. These are made mostly in Persia.

Piled Weave:
These types of piled or knotted carpets are made in western countries. This requires a great deal of work when compared to the other kilim or Soumakh which are also very costly. The curvilinear designs can only be successfully produced in this method due to their intricate nature.

Vernah Weaving Technique:

The combined technique of Kilim or Soumakh weaving is known as vernah. In this a part of weaving is done in Soumakh and other is done by Kilim. These are not considered to be good for use in western countries.

Countries Where Carpets Are Produced:
Turkey, Persia, China, Tibet, Cuba, Karbagh, Central Anatolia, Eastern Anatolia, The Caucasus, Kazak, Daghestan, Azerbaijan, Turkestan, Afghanistan, India, Pakistan, Britain, Ireland, Spain, North Africa, Austria, North America etc., are the countries producing carpets.

SAREES

Introduction:

Saree is the most popular women's wear in India since early days. It’s a long fabric measuring 115 cm x 420 cm. around 6 yards that is used to cover the entire body of a woman from foot to neck along with other accessories like blouse and slips etc. Saree is made of fabrics like cotton, silk, or synthetic fibers. There are large variety of sarees found in India which differs in their motif design, texture, substance and in many other aspects. Saree is nothing but a long drape dyed and painted with fascinating colors and pigments to attract the viewers. However it is the essence of women's fashion in India which gives perfect beauty and looks to each and every pretty women. It comes in the Hindu mythology one of the epic of Mahabharat where Draupadi Vastraharan where he queen of Pandavs wearing a never ending long drape that Dusasan could not part it entirely from her body. However, one could imagine how old the history of Indian drapes or saree is. Since it has been recorded that spinning yarns and weaving fabrics was known to the ancient people of Sindhu civilization who had discovered cotton and also learned to grow and spin and weave silk from the Chinese people. A single drape was worn by both the man and women in those day but in course of time the drapes for men became comparatively shorter and they used to cover only their lower parts from waist at work and home as well. On the other hand, drapes for the women became longer as they have to cover their body from foot to neck all the times. By passage of time painting and dyeing fabrics with many colors and pigments derived from the vegetable and other sources were put in use by the weaver which was intensely liked by the womenfolk.

In India , one and all state have their own traditional sort of sarees. The sarees have some common features even if they differ entirely in design motif and other aspects. The shared texture is meant to guard against the evil eye, misfortune, infertility, marital dispute and others. Sarees are available in all varieties such as cotton, silk and synthetic. These can also be classified into many categories according to the work done i.e. embroidery, zari etc. and purpose of the saree i.e. daily wear, party wear, bridal wear and so on Starting from the northern India we can say that it is the center of saree export from India . Varanasi is well known as the giant saree production center of India . Khinchabs and Amru brocades are made here. The Zari in the Khinchabs almost overshadow the original silk. The Amru brocades are woven in silk, not in zari thread where a typical Amru brocade is the Tanchoi. These are woven in all shades of red, orange and yellow. Similarly, south India has Kanjeevaram sarees are hand-woven silks, with unique practice in Tamil Nadu. Kornad sarees are also famous here. Karnataka is known for llkul Sarees which is made in e earth colors of rust, mustard, green and ochre, and woven with zari besides this Mysore crepe, Mysore silk or the Chamundi silk are also known far and wide. Muslin sarees made in Kerala for bridal wear are also very chic.

 

Eastern India has very famous sarees like Baluchari sarees of Murshidabad, the dhoop- chhaon sarees of Bishnupur West Bengal and other wedding sarees. Baavanbuti sarees of Bihar with 52 motifs and Vichitrapuri sarees of Orissa is a wedding saree with ikkat; works are renowned. Pasapalli or the Saktapar are the other sarees from Orissa. Equally the western India has sarees like paithani or shallu with gold zari work and Astapuri saree of Maharastra is well known. The Gharchola and Bandhini viz.tie-and-dye motifs of Gujrat and Rajasthan finest sarees of India . Panetar Saree is also made in the region with gold zari work.

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The Story of the Saree

The Indian popular wear called as ‘saree’ or ‘sari’ has been in existence for more than 5000 years which is mentioned in the Vedas. According to few historical records of India , during Shunga period of 200 – 50 B.C, north Indian terracotta depicts a woman wearing a saree covering the entire body. In Maharastra, Murals and demi-gods of total gods of the Ajanta caves are two representations of women wearing sarees draping around the entire body. According to the costume historians, dhoti was worn by both men and women till 14th century. 1st-6th century CE sculptures show goddesses and dancers wear dhoti of fishtail version. Some versions of the history of Indian clothing trace the sari back to the Indus valley civilization, which flourished in 2800-1800 BCE.


 It is the basic wear of rural people of India . The name ‘saree’ is derived from the Sanskrit word ‘Chira’ which means cloth. To suit the local conditions, it is designed by the Indian people in the earlier days. Ancient western historians thought about this saree that there were cloth growing trees in India . The length of it varies from 5 to 9.5 yards and it is draped around the entire body.With the simple trial, we can turn it either as a working dress or party-wear.


 Middle class women wear 5-6 yard saree which is comfortable to them to do their household work. Rural women at the time of their work, tuck the same length above the ankles. If they need to work in fields, they tuck the front pleats between the legs to the back, and tie the upper portion round the waist.


 In ancient days, a nine yard saree used to be worn by the Indian woman with embroidery, embellishments and gold designing. It was worn in the way of working saree. A gold silver or cloth was fixed firmly to keep pallu, upper part of pleats and folds in tact. This type of dress was worn by the famous female historians especially at the time of war who are like Jhansi ’s queen Laxmi bai, Kittur Chennamma, Belawadi Mallamma etc. Tight tucking of the front pleats in the back was called ‘Soldier’s tuck’ or ‘Veeragacche’.


Generally the Indian climate is warm. So, Saree is more suitable for this subcontinent. One ancient statue shows a man in a draped robe which some sari researchers believe to be a precursor of the sari. In olden days, men also wear a dress like saree called ’dhoti’. In those days, there was hardly any difference between Saree and dhoti. Men also liked to wear colorful Sarees with brocaded borders could perhaps be interchanged in needy times. The upper portion of the saree-length which covers the chest is only missing.

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Sarees of Andhra Pradesh

Pochampalli:Pochampalli, located near the capital city of Andhra Pradesh, Hyderabad, is probably one of the most flourishing center of modern handloom industry and producing ikkat Sarees on a large scale. The weavers in Pochampalli are basically Hindus of the Padmasali or Devang communities who have been residents for long and have thus adopted the local dialect and social norms. These weavers produce ikkat textiles with geometrical designs, and have also recently started experimenting with all-Indian styles. It is believed that ikkat technique was brought to Pochampalli from Chirala, another town in Andhra Pradesh, a couple of generations ago, perhaps as early as 1915 when the workshops in Chirala are said to have been weaving ikkat Sarees, turbans etc. One of the reasons why Pochampalli Sarees find a better market in India and abroad is, the weavers use modern synthetic colors instead of the expensive vegetable dyes for dying, thereby not only bringing down the cost of production, but also getting a chance to be more creative by trying out complex designs.


Since the 1960's Pochampalli ikkat-weavers were influenced by the paolu designs of Gujarat. The reasons for this influence could be many. Migration of the weavers could be one of them. However, there are some experts who feel that more than migration it could be influence of the print media which could be one of the major reasons. "Weavers have probably seen the Gujarati designs either in a magazine or might have actually seen one of the patola fabrics. It is also possible that weavers came across the designs at a handloom exhibition and copied the design, says some experts.

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How these are woven ? :

The yarn for the wrap and the weft is stretched on warping blocks in the form of quarter circle. They consist of one strong peg, connected with a circular segment of a wooden plank, studded with about 35 pegs at regular intervals. The thread - warp as well as weft - is stretched on it and divided into a number of sets. Later the designs are tied in the sets, while the yarn is held on the warping block. For dyeing the yarn is taken off, but when dry, it is again stretched, partly opened and tied again for dyeing, a process which can be repeated several times. The red and brown shades, between white and black, are achieved using alizarin dyes. For this the cloth is first soaked in a mixture of castor oil and alkaline earth, then dried, again soaked, dipped in alizarin paste and finally boiled till it becomes red. For the brown shades, iron splinters are added to the color. Black color is produced by dissolving iron splinters in vinegar. Modern ikkats of Andhra Pradesh, which are simple and use at the most three colors and surely geometrical designs, are of good quality and sell competitively, but there are some experts who feel that they never attain the technical perfection of other ikkats of say Orissa or Gujarat as they feel that the weavers of Andhra Pradesh usually make them with the aim of saving time and material and thereby compromise on quality.

Gadwal Silk Cottom / Cotton:

 

Sarees from Gadwal have an elegance and grace all its own. Available in cottons and silks, these Sarees can easily be adapted to the modern lifestyle.


Venkatgiri Silk Cotton / Cotton:

Venkatgiri Sarees blend the simplicity of cotton with the ornamental zari butas. Again, these Sarees are elegant with their unique charm.

Dharmavaram silk:

This center is known for ornately designed silk Sarees heavily decorated with gold zari borders. Located in the Anantapur district of Andhra Pradesh, Dharmavaram Sarees are a must-have in the women's wardrobes. During weddings and festive occasions, the vibrant Sarees in contrasting colors add the much needed gaiety.


Kanchi silk
Kanchi cotton
Chanderi silk cotton
Neerugattuvaripalli silk
Narayanpet silk
Narayanpet cotton
Madhavaram cotton
Guntur cotton
Cotton Sarees with zari borders, these are ideal for daily wear. The cotton is thick and easy to wash and maintain.

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Bandar Petu Art Silk:
These Sarees have dobby borders.
Mangalgiri
Uppada cotton
Payakaropet cotton
Patur
Mutyampet Tie & Dye
Rajahmundry Tie & Dye
Rajahmundry Bandarulanka
Border Sarees
Tie & Dye silk, Ikat
Tie & Dye mercerized, Pochampally
Tie & Dye cotton, Pochampally
Gollabhama Border Sarees
Tie & Dye Kathan Silk
Jamdani

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Jacard:

These are blended polycotton Sarees. The designs on its border and pallav are made by Jacard (hence the name) machine which is primarily used for printing fabric designs.
Jamdani
Kothakota
Kuppadam
These Sarees are named after its border.
Python Sarees:
This Saree is named after its pallav which is adorned with hand-made butas.

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Specialities in Sarees

 

Santipur Sarees
Baluchar
Tangail Sarees
Gulbahar Sarees
Kanchanmala Sarees
Nilambari
Kotah Doria
Brocaded Sarees
Patola
Vichitrapuri Saree
Uppada Sarees
Siddipet and Venkatgiri Sarees
Kollabhana Sarees
Gadwal Sarees
Venkatgiri Sarees
Telia Rumal Sarees
Itkal, Nipazi Sarees
Maheshwari Sarees
Balarampuram Kerala
Chinnalapatti Sarees
Sungadi Sarees
Kanchipuram

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Tales of Sarees

Saree Tales The modern Saree belongs to the nivi family. These drapes are wrapped around the body from bottom to the top, leaving a bunch of pleats in front. In the kaccha, a family of Sarees worn in Maharashtra, the upper kaccha, pleats are passed between the legs and tucked at the back. In earlier times, most drapes were dhoti. Cloth is tied round the waist in the middle of its length, and each side is wrapped around each leg separately. 'Brahmin Sarees' have evolved from the dhoti.


Dravidians and Eastern Indians wear Sarees which have evolved from the veshti. We can distinguish three sub-families: Veshti, covering only the lower part of the body, Tamil Sarees and Eastern Sarees, where the upper part is thrown once or twice over the shoulder.


Tribal women prefer drapes tied over the chest. Some of these Sarees are a cross between purely tribal styles and styles from other families.
Saree is still the most popular form of women’s dress in India. The single length of cloth is worn by wrapping it around the feminine form. It is also manipulated to cover the head and sometimes the face. It is interesting to note that wearing a Saree today in India is considered both – fashionable as well as conservative.


The most amazing feature of the Saree is it is neither tailored nor stitched. It can be worn by women of all ages, all shapes and all sizes without any alterations. And the five-and-half-meter cloth can be manipulated cunningly to either cloak or enhance the bodily charms of the women. Made of cottons, silks, blends, the cloth is decorated by dyeing, printing and / or embroidering. Literature about aesthetics and morality of Indian dress dates back to pre-Christian era. The Dharmashastras record socio-religious  do’s and don’ts on clothing. Men’s and women’s clothes – the upper and lower garments – were not too different in the early Vedic times. By late Vedic period, the women’s clothing gave way to a single length of draped cloth – today called the Saree.

In fact Manu Samhita proclaims:
Women must be honored and adorned by their fathers, brothers and husbands and brothers in law for their own welfare ….. The houses, on which female relations, not being duly honored, pronounce a curse, perish completely as if destroyed by magic. Hence men who seek their own welfare should always honor women on holidays and festivals with ornaments, clothes and food.” Indian cloths with their fast dyes and varied designs were famous throughout the ancient world. The earliest specimen of Indian resist-dyed cloth apart from the fragment found at Harappa dates back to the 8th century.

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How to tie a Saree
One end is passed twice round the waist, upper border tied in a strong knot, and allowed to fall in graceful folds to the ankle, thus forming a sort of petticoat or skirt. Today in the urban and semi-urban areas of India, modes of economy and production have radically changed, but one factor that remains constant is the presence of the Saree in the life of the Indian woman. It is interesting that even women in Western countries have begun to develop some interest in Sarees for their graceful decoration of female form.


The word Saree is anglicized from 'Sadi', which existed in Prakrit language As Sadia and originated from Sanskrit 'Sati' meaning a strip of clot. Sati, occurs in the 'Mahabharata' and perhaps earlier, but the nature of this garment in those times and how it was worn, is difficult to gauge accurately. It is certain that the art was highly cultivated. There are innumerable references in ancient Indian literature to the draped garment and its style.


As far as length and woven proportions of the draped garment is concerned, it mostly depends on the cultural area and conjunction of use and varies from almost a square piece of about 125 cm. to the standard urban rectangular Saree, about 5 m. long and 120 cm. broad. With respect to the material from which these Sarees are made and their texture, these aspects vary from one handloom centre to another. As to the material of choice, cotton naturally occupies the first place: followed by mixtures of cottons and silk, rayon and their blends of cottons and lastly silk with ornamented brocading. The silk Sarees of southern India use heavy lustrous silk and broad borders and elaborate pallus, with contrasting colour combinations, which result in harmonious colour blends Kancheepuram, Tanjore and Kumbakonam, are the important centers of Tamil Nadu. Sangareddy and Dharmaswaram in Andhra Pradesh, Kolegal and Molkalmoru in Mysore, are also famous silk- weaving centers. 
Step 1: These are the "underneath" garments you need to wear before tying a Saree - a waist-to- floor length petticoat, tied tightly at the waist by a drawstring. You should not use elastic to hold the petticoat around the waist as the elastic might not bear the weight of the Saree. You have to wear an upper garment in the form of a tight fitting blouse that ends just below the bust. The blouse could be short sleeved or sleeveless. Its necklines can also be in different shapes and sizes.

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Step 2: Now with your left hand hold the inside end of the Saree material .Tuck the top border of the inner end of the Saree into your petticoat starting at the navel, and complete one full turn from right to the left. Make sure that the lower end of the Saree touches the floor.


Step 3: Beginning from the tucked-in end start making pleats in the Saree, starting at the right, about 5 inches deep. Make about 7 to 10 pleats and hold them up together so that they fall straight and even. All the pleats should be at the same height off the floor.


Step 4: Tuck the pleats into the waist slightly to the left of the navel, and make sure that they are turned towards the left. Make sure the Saree is held there firmly. Tuck it in a little more if necessary and you can even use a safety pin to hold it in place.


Step 5: Drape the remaining fabric around yourself once more left to right, and bring it up under the right arm and over the left shoulder so that it falls to about the level of the knees.
Step 6: The end portion thus draped is the palled, and can be prevented from slipping off by fixing it at the shoulder to the blouse with a small safety pin.


It is a feminine prerogative to beautify her. Flowers, cosmetics, ornaments, gay colorful Clothing with these women down the ages have created stunning looks. Many a man has been charmed, dazzled, seduced, enchanted, bewitched, captivated, enraptured, and mesmerized by women who can literally use clothes, jeweler and other accompaniments as weapons. The Saree is a very unique dress. With only tucks and folds, it is worn in such a way that it sheaths the body almost completely. The demure Indian woman, covered from head to toe presents a picture of modesty. But, as women only know how to, a Saree however all encompassing, can be gently pulled and draped to hint at the alluring form underneath. It is the promise of what it enfolds which makes the Saree a bewitching garment.

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Sola Singaar
Sola Singar – in the sixteen things that a woman needs to beautify herself – clothes form a significant part.
These are :
 1. Bindi / Kumkum
 2. Necklace / garlands
 3. Earrings
 4. Flowers in hair
 5. Bangles
 6. Rings

 7. Armlets
 8. Waistbands
 9. Anklets
10. Toe rings
11. Kohl
12. Henna
13. Perfume
14. Sandalwood paste for body
15. Upper garment
16. Lower garment


Old Accusation
In the weekly editorial of Indian Ladies Magazine, the first English language journal for women published from Madras in the 1920s and 1930s, contemporary fashions were discussed. It is since then that the Indian women are being accused of imitating the west, thereby detracting from the grace of Indian dress and even looking ridiculous. Samples of cotton fiber woven into cloth printed fabrics have been found in the 3rd century BC.


Saree Bzz
It is a feminine prerogative to beautify herself. Flowers, cosmetics, ornaments, gay colorful clothing -- with these women down the ages have created stunning looks. Many a man has been charmed, dazzled, seduced, enchanted, bewitched, captivated, enraptured, and mesmerized by women who can literally use clothes, jewellery and other accompaniments as weapons. It is a feminine prerogative to beautify herself. Flowers, cosmetics, ornaments, gay colorful clothing -- with these women down the ages have created stunning looks. Many a man has been charmed, dazzled, seduced, enchanted, bewitched, captivated, enraptured, and mesmerized by women who can literally use clothes, jewellery and other accompaniments as weapons.


The Saree is a very unique dress. With only tucks and folds, it is worn in such a way that it sheaths the body almost completely. The demure Indian woman, covered from head to presents a picture of modesty. But, as women only know how to, a Saree however all encompassing, can be gently pulled and draped to hint at the alluring form underneath. It is the promise of what it enfolds which makes the Saree a bewitching garment.

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Secrets behind the success of a saree
A sari is not a dress; it is just like a fabric which needs to be draped neatly in a proper way to increase its appearance. We can say this traditional garment of India as a versatile one as it could be worn in different ways like gown, skirt, shorts, and trousers without a single stitch. These sarees are available in a number of fabrics like cottons, pure silks, synthetics etc in different colors.


  A properly draped saree transforms a woman to become stylish, graceful, elegant and sensuous. If you pinup the tip of the sari and let the rest fall on your hand, it looks smart for parties. A falls stitched at the bottom of the sari make the sari more graceful. It is also embellished with gold thread work, cutwork, appliqué work, and embroidery. Indian civilization has placed a tremendous importance on unstitched fabric. The belief is unstitched fabric is pure.


   The success of the Sari is attributed to its total simplicity, practical comfort, and sense of luxury, a woman experiences. A sari is an outfit which reveals as much as it hides. To wear it nicely, practice is needed.

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STYLES OF DRAPING
Different region people wear a saree in different styles and some styles require a sari of a particular length. It is worn in 10 to 15 styles throughout India. The most common style is wrapped around the waist in which one end is draped over the shoulder. It is five to six yards of unstitched cloth worn over a Blouse and a Petticoat. In North Karnataka and Maharashtra, women wear a nine yard saree without a petticoat. Kannadiga, Mangalorean, Kodava, Bengali, Malayali, Gujarati and Tamilian women wear sarees of different styles. In this globalized world, the dress of Indians is also getting westernized. Being most utilitarian in different occasions, it is still reigning in rural India.


Different unique draping styles:
1.Nivi: This style is worn in Andhra Pradesh. It is held in place by the tucks into the petticoat waistband and the pallu is hanging over the shoulder. In case of ‘Kaccha nivi’ , the pleats are passed through the legs and tucked into the waist at the back allowing free movement.
2.Maharashtrian: In this type of draping a sari, the centre of the sari is placed at the centre of the back. The ends are brought forward and tied neatly. Again the two ends are wrapped around the legs. An extra-long cloth is used and the ends are then passed up over the shoulder. The difference between this type of sari and the male maharashtrian dhoti is this long cloth only. The traditional type of nine yards sari is worn by the Brahmin women of different Southern states of India.
3. Bengali: This style of draping a sari has no pleats. The pallu has a bunch of keys that falls over the shoulder.
4.Dravidian: In this style, it is pleated rosette, at the waist. It is worn by Tamil nadu women.
5.Gujarati: In this style of draping, sari is draped over the right shoulder in the front rather than over the left shoulder. The modern non-Gujarati women wear this type in social occations with the eye-catching magnificent pallus.
6.Coorgi: In this style, it involves tying the pleats in the rear and a small portion of the pallu is placed over the shoulder
7.Mundum Neryathum: This style is worn in Kerala. It made of unbleached cotton and decorated with gold or colored stripes and borders. It is also called as the two-piece sari.
8.Gond: In this style, the cloth of the sari is first draped over the left shoulder and then it arranged to cover the body.
9.Tribal Styles: In tribal styles, sari is tied firmly across the chest covering the breasts.

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Characteristics of a saree:
There are sarees to match every mood and every occasion to suit every budget. It is a rectangular piece of unstitched fabric which is draped in a very fascinating manner. This garment is in style for over 5000 years for the simple reason of its simplicity and practical usage.  The length of the fabric is 6 yards or 5 meters long. This is a one piece of clothing which fits all either fat or thin, short or tall. Based on how you drape the sari, you can ingeniously conceal the extra flab or fat. The traditional 6 yard sari allows for generous pleating, and draping around the body and over the shoulders giving much comfort that you can even run a marathon in this without any problem.


Other features to follow while wearing a saree:
About petticoat: It is a long flared craw-string skirt which is worn underneath a sari to hold the sari in place or to give it shape. Most of the sari is tucked into the waistband of the petticoat only while draping it. It is believed that today’s petticoat came with the Muslims in the form of the Ghaghra.
About Blouse/Choli: Before draping a sari, u should wear a blouse in the upper part of the body and it just ends above the Mid-riff of u. It is a tight fitting item of clothing and usually fastens in a row of hooks along the front. This sleeve length of the Blouse may be full sleeves or half sleeves or sleeveless. Based on the current fashions, the sleeve length can be changed. A Choli is a more traditional form of the sari blouse and it fits tightly to the body. It has to be tied at the back or at the front as a tie in the middle.
Sari pallu: The fanciest end of the fabric thrown over the left shoulder is known as ‘pallu’. It is of one metre length. We can use it in different ways like a shawl or scarf. Saree Fall: It is a matching fabric sown onto the bottom-side edge of a sari. Its length is approximately 5 inches. It assists the sari to fall well when draped around the body and so it is called as ‘Fall’.
About Kumkum: It is the Indian name of "vermilion". Indian women use it to make a round mark between their eyebrows to look more graceful on saree. These days, this tradition has been changing to wear bindis instead of wearing kumkum.
About Madisar: In most orthodox Tamil Brahmin households, dictates that for important ceremonies - like weddings and death anniversarees - the woman of the house must wear the nine-yard saree which is draped in the complex manner. The man is also expected to wear the panchagatcham which is a five-pleated dhoti. It has been handed down through generations.
 Without a petticoat, it is worn. If it is wrapped properly, no other upper or lower garment is needed. This tradition of wearing the nine-yard saree was prevalent in the States like Karnataka and Maharashtra. In ancient days, several women wear this type of sari during wars like Jhansi’s Queen Laxmibai. Recently, In Tamilnadu, a ‘ready-to-wear’ madisar sari is introduced with complete stitched pleats, hooks and belt.

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 Iyer way of wearing a madisar:
 Make 5-6 pleats in one end of the sari with the same length.
 Keep the pleats on your left at the back and bring the saree around your body and make a knot at the left back in your waist line.
 Bring it to the front and tuck one edge almost 1/2 way from that edge in the front. Make the pleat and bring the whole saree to the back under your legs.
 Tuck the saree at the back or at waist line. Bring around the saree through your left after tucking the shorter edge slightly at your right. Bring the saree around your body again.
 Hold it on your left and pass it on to your right shoulder arranging the border. Bring the border around and tuck it in the front.

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Different Steps involved in tying a saree:
   To wear a saree, the needed accessories along with the saree are matching blouse and petticoat. The blouse should be fit to the body. Petticoat should be threaded with elastic or with cotton tape, to tie it around the waist comfortably and it should be of ankle length.
  First of all, put on a petticoat tightly around your waist and take the inner end of the saree. Starting from left side, tuck the upper edge of it into your petticoat in front and a little bit more towards right hand side by leaving the remaining saree towards left side. Check the lower edge of the saree leveled with the ground.
  Now bring the loose (other) end of the saree towards your right hand side around back by tucking the upper edge of it into the petticoat till one fourth if right side.
   Based on your height and taste, leave the end portion of the saree which is called ‘pallu’ and place it over your left shoulder. This upper boarder should slant across the bust from under the right arm to over the left shoulder. After making the pallu, a large portion of the saree is left. Turn this remaining saree into around 7 to 10 with the equal breadth starting from your left hand side.
   Pleating needs both the hands, with the right hand holding the pleats and the left, supporting the forefinger at one edge and thumb pinkie at the other edge of your body. After pleating, arrange them one behind the other. The last one should be little broader than the rest. Pull them up slightly for its smooth look and tuck them a bit more towards left side. Make the lower end of the saree leveled with the ground as the gracefulness of the saree depends mainly on these pleats. Getting a fall stitched on the saree bottom ensures a better drape.
  Finally you can leave the pallu on your left hand fully without folds with which you can exhibit the loveliness of your saree pallu.
  You can also make it stand on the shoulder itself by turning it into pleats. We can make it firm with the help of a safety pin by attaching it to your blouse.

 
       
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